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Dom Pérignon Rosé Classic 2009 Is a Fascinating New Champagne – Robb Report


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Vincent Chaperon spent his childhood dreaming of the ocean. The grandson of French marines on either side of his household, he grew up close to the ocean and beloved crusing—which is probably why he figured his stint at Moët & Chandon, in landlocked Champagne, can be a brief one when he began in 1999. Six years later he joined Dom Pérignon, and 25 years on he’s that label’s chef de cave, a task he assumed in 2019 after a 13-year apprenticeship below his predecessor, Richard Geoffroy. Regardless of the dearth of open water, Chaperon has sunk his roots right here—“progressively,” he notes, which is how, he says, “people fall in love with somebody or one thing.” For him, it goes with out saying, “that’s wine.” 

Named for the Benedictine monk thought of the religious father of Champagne, Dom Pérignon is produced solely within the best years and solely as a single classic. In discussing the not too long ago launched Dom Pérignon Rosé Classic 2009, Chaperon compares the Champagne-making course of grandly to structure: “We’re creating an area ranging from an emotion, a quantity, a texture, a light-weight, an environment, a sense, a character.” The Rosé Classic 2009 is “charming and intensely alive,” he says, crediting the mixed ability of a group that features “vine growers, winemakers, crafters, and scientists.” 

Chaperon, 49, describes every classic as a “dialogue between the character of the 12 months and the imaginative and prescient of Dom Pérignon,” although he, like others within the area, notes that local weather change is making every year’s character more and more unstable. He remembers the unusually scorching and dry 2003 classic, when grapes had been harvested in August for the primary time in reminiscence; warmth waves and drought have since made August grape assortment the usual, probably upping the sugar ranges and decreasing the acid. 

The “captivating and intensely alive” Rosé Vintage 2009.

The “charming and intensely alive” Rosé Classic 2009.

Harold de Puymorin

However Chaperon, who credit the venerable Champagne home with a essentially “entrepreneurial spirit” and the kind of sources that “permit us to take calculated dangers,” appears to welcome problem—and the liberty to find. “In my view, Rosé has much more potential than Blanc. Dom Pérignon Rosé will be stretched—it has a way of crimson wine, but it surely’s not a crimson wine. It has a way of rosé, but it surely goes past the class. It has a singular character and nice versatility within the expertise, which is why we maintain exploring it.” 

The 2009 Rosé Classic releases a discreet column of bubbles that opens a bouquet of raspberry, dried fig, and rose petal, with a gentle trace of baking spice. Flavors of Mission fig, cherry, rising brioche, and fennel pollen roll over the palate, all bathed in refined acidity. Chaperon attributes the wine’s class and depth to its 14 years of getting older, which he says resulted in one thing “charming and intensely alive.” For a classic produced by two generations of cooks de cave, that feels totally applicable. 

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